Advanced guide to printing PETG Filament

Author: Matt Tyson/Monday, 20 May 2019/Categories: User Guides, Material Guides, PETG

Advanced guide to printing PETG Filament
Authors Note

Thankyou for taking the time to read our guide on 3D printing PETG. This article has been written to provide both printing and troubleshooting tips along with tips for post-printing processes like painting and support removal. We have highlighted important topics with a star (*) so please don't feel intimidated as sections in this guide may not be relevant to everyone, - Matt Tyson, 3D Printing Solutions

This user guide was last updated - 11th March 2020

Combining excellent printability and balanced mechanical properties, PETG is a popular material due to its improved mechanical and thermal properties when compared to regular PLA.


  What is PETG?
  Requirements *

Printer Setup
  Loading & Unloading Filament *
  Bed Surface *
  Bed Leveling & Nozzle Height *
  Preheating *
  Enclosure *
  Filament Storage

Printer Settings
  Nozzle Temperature *
  Bed Temperature *
  Heated Chamber
  Rafts / Brims

Post Printing
  Removing a print after completion
  Removing Layer Lines

Trouble Shooting
  Poor Surface Quality
  Blocked Nozzle / Filament Jam
  Sticking to nozzle
  Burning / Discolouring
  Heat Creep
  Stringing / Oozing
  Cracking between layers
  Poor Layer Adhesion
  Difficult to remove prints
  Difficult to remove supports / raft


What is PETG?

PETG is a glycol-modified variant of PET (Polyethylene Terephthalate) and the most popular material in the PET family of plastics. The glycol in PETG offers improved printability and toughness compared to other PET copolyesters making it the most suitable variant for 3D printing. Due to the benefits and popularity of PETG, it is uncommon to print pure PET filaments.

PETG offers improved mechanical and thermal properties when compared to PLA, while maintaining excellent printability and reliability. Although not a direct replacement for ABS, PETG is a great choice for users who experience difficulty printing ABS due to warping or cracking and require improved mechanical properties to PLA with excellent dimensional stability.

PETG exhibits a low chemical resistance and moderate temperature resistance, softening at 80°C (Glass Transition and Vicat temperature).

PolyMax™ PETG is a nano-reinforced PETG material exhibiting superior impact resistance and ductility when compared with regular PETG, PLA and ABS filaments. Combining superior performance and printability, PolyMax™ PETG is an excellent material for a wide range of functional applications requiring durability, ductility, stiffness and near-zero warping on a wide range of printers.

PolyMax™ PETG exhibits the same chemical resistance and temperature resistance as quality PETG filaments.

Recommended settings are the same as regular PETG and we use the same settings for both PolyMax PETG and regular PETG.

Requirements *

An enclosed professional 3D printer is not required but will be beneficial when printing PETG. We recommend only printing with a quality PETG filament.

Minimum Extruder Temperature - 230°C (±10°C)  is required (Correct temperature will vary on your printer)
Heated Bed - Required, 70° - 85°C.
Enclosure - Not required but recommended for best results.
Part Cooling Fan - OFF or LOW
Feeding / Spooling - No specific requirements.
Other Notes - N/A

Some 3D printing slicers (software) have a pre-configured PETG or CPE profile. The accuracy of this profile may vary depending on if you are using 1st or 3rd party filament. If a PETG or CPE profile is not available we recommend duplicating a PLA or ABS profile to start with and making necessary adjustments covered in this article.

Printer Setup 

Feeding path and spooling

PETG doesn't have any specific feeding path requirements.

As a general tip we recommend avoiding long and complicated feeding paths that can cause bends in the filament, this can introduce drag on the filament that may result in difficulties feeding and extruding.

If you typically have issues with moisture in your filament, you can read our tips and comments on filament storage to determine if a dry box will be beneficial.

Loading and Unloading Filament *

Changing between two PETG materials:
If the printer is currently loaded with a different PETG material, unload that material at 230-240°C and extrude your PETG filament at the same temperature. Stop extruding the PETG filament after the previous colour is completely purged.

Changing from a higher temperature material:
If the printer is currently loaded with a higher temperature material, unload that material at its recommended printing temperature, and then load and extrude your PETG filament at that same higher temperature. It is important to load the PETG at this higher temperature so the previous material can be pushed out.  Stop extruding the PETG filament after the previous material has been completely purged and cleaned out, lower the temperature to 230-240°C, and extrude the PETG plastic for a few more seconds.

Changing from a lower temperature material:
If the printer is currently loaded with a different lower temperature material, unload that material at its recommended printing temperature, and then load and extrude your PETG filament at 230-240°C. Stop extruding the PETG filament after the previous material has been completely purged and cleaned out. 

Bed Surface *

Printing with the right bed surface is very important when printing PETG. For PETG we recommend first trying the surface your 3D printer was designed to use.

Platform Material Recommended Surfaces
Glass Bed [1] [2]

Recommended - Straight on glass bed with a thin layer of Magigoo Original or glue stick.

Overlay options - Buildtak or FlashForge style sheet [2] | PEI sheet.

Aluminium Bed

Most popular - Buildtak or FlashForge style sheet [2]

Other options - PEI sheet

Perforated Board

Most popular -Straight onto perforated board [3]

Other options - Buildtak or FlashForge style sheet [2]

Flex Plate (possibly magnetic)

Most popular - Buildtak or FlashForge style sheet [2]

Other options - PEI sheet

[1] - If you are not using Magigoo (an adhesive which self-releases), we highly recommend removing your models immediately after printing when printing directly to glass. 
[2] - PETG can stick to glass, printing surfaces and sheets very well, sometimes too well. We do not recommend printing directly to glass without using an adhesive like Magigoo. If models are fusing to the sheets you can increase your nozzle gap or add a layer of Magigoo / glue to act as an interface.
[3] - This method is generally successful however will rely on compatibility between the PETG and material of the perforated board. With a compatible combination the perforation on the board will grip the model during printing to help prevent lifting or warping. A raft is recommended for the best results.

Bed Leveling & Nozzle Height *

It is important when printing PETG that your first layer adheres to the printing bed.

  • Your bed must be properly leveled.
  • Your nozzle height must be set correctly. (distance between the nozzle and bed)

Since PETG will require a heated bed when printing, preheat the heated bed (70 - 80°C) before calibrating your nozzle height or leveling.

The ideal gap between the nozzle and bed is typically a distance of 0.1mm, this is the thickness of two pieces of paper. PETG sticks to itself very well and because of this, can stick to the nozzle during printing. To prevent this it can be beneficial to print with a slightly larger nozzle gap than you usually would.

When changing between bed surfaces, it is important to adjust the nozzle height again to compensate for the added thickness of the bed surface.

Pre-Heating *

For optimal results, it is recommended that you pre-heat the buildplate to 80°C at least 10 minutes before 3D printing PETG. Preheating will help to ensure the bed is evenly heated and increase the ambient temperature to minimize risk of warping.

Enclosure *

An enclosure is not strictly required when printing PETG however does offer benefits. The enclosure protects the print from drafts and external temperature changes, important when printing large parts and improves the environmental temperature during printing which can impact mechanical performance and dimensional stability.

Many enclosed printers have top lids / doors which can be opened or removed. Opening the top lid may be beneficial when printing PETG on some 3D printers.

Filament Storage

When not in use PETG should be stored away from sunlight and in a resealable bag with desiccant.

Like many other plastics, PETG is a hygroscopic material, absorbing moisture from its surrounding environment. When the filament passes through the hot end the moisture rapidly expands creating bubbles in between layers, poor layer adhesion, inconsistent extrusion due to material expansion and thus poor surface quality.

PETG will typically absorb moisture over a period of months however in environments with high humidity (evaporative air-conditioning) this process can take days.

Preventing Moisture Absorption:
It is important to store and print your PETG materials in their optimum environment (below 20% humidity) to prevent moisture absorption, as excessive drying will degrade the filament. We recommend storing filaments in a resealable bag with desiccant when not in use and we recommend using a filament dry box like the PolyBox™ when printing. The PolyBox™ is a spool holder / dry box which stores filament in an environment below 20% relative humidity while printing, preventing moisture absorption.

Removing Moisture:

If your filament has absorbed moisture it can be dried in a convection oven. Visit our 'starters guide to moisture, drying and filament storage' for recommended drying times.

Printer Settings

Nozzle Temperature

PETG has a moderate printing temperature, typically printing between 230°C - 250°C.
Of course the printing temperature range of PETG filaments will vary depending on which printer and filament brand you use.

PETG is more susceptible to oozing and sticking to the nozzle, these characteristics can be reduced with the correct nozzle temperature. Higher extrusion temperatures will typically result in better flow and layer adhesion, ideal for printing mechanical parts whereas lower extrusion temperatures allow the plastic to cool and solidify faster, beneficial for users interested in overhang surface quality and easier support removal. 

When starting we recommend trying a temperature right in the middle of the manufacturer’s suggested settings. If the manufacturer recommends 230°C - 240°C, printing at 235°C is a good starting point. If your extruder can not reach the highest recommended temperature, try printing at the lower temperature. Based on the quality of the print we suggest adjusting ± 5°C at a time.

Troubleshooting Nozzle Temperature

If the nozzle temperature is too hot, you may experience nozzle jams, wisps / stringing on the surface of the print, material sticking to the nozzle, difficult to remove and fused support material, sagging or poor surface quality on overhangs.

If the nozzle temperature isn't hot enough, you may experience compromised mechanical properties due to the poor layer adhesion, under-extrusion (uneven / rough surface quality) and if the filament is not melting fast enough; nozzle blockages.

Bed Temperature

Printing PETG requires a heated bed at 70°C - 80°C.

We generally don't recommend heating your heated bed above the glass transition temperature of PETG (80°C ). 

Heated Chamber

A heated chamber is not required to successfully print parts in PETG. Unless advised by the printer or filament manufacturer we don't recommend printing with chamber heating turned on.


When printing PETG you can print with the part cooling fan ON or OFF. The best results will vary depending on your printer.

If you are interested in maximizing layer adhesion and strength, we recommend printing with the cooling fan OFF.

Printing with the cooling fan ON will improve surface quality and reduce stringing.

If you can control the power of your cooling fan, even setting the fan speed to 20% can help to improve the quality of overhangs and reduce sagging.

Rafts / Brims

A raft or brim is generally not required when printing PETG materials however will be ideal to improve adhesion when printing with some printing surfaces.

A brim is a thin layer of material surrounding the print that can be added help improve bed adhesion. The brim can be removed once the print has completed.

A raft is a foundation for the model to print on top of. The can be added to help improve bed adhesion and stabilize supports. The raft can be removed once the print has completed.

With some leveling systems manufacturers may specifically recommend a raft to compensate.


When printing PETG, supports can either be printed in PETG or with a second dedicated support material. Printing with a secondary material will require a printer capable of multi-material / dual extrusion printing.

PETG Supports - With single extrusion 3D printers the model and supports are printed with the same material. When printing both the supports and model in PETG, supports should ideally peel away by hand.

As PETG likes to stick to itself more than other materials, printing with a larger z axis gap between your model and supports can help improve support removal.

Soluble Supports - PETG can be printed with a secondary support material that has been engineered to dissolve in a solvent. Soluble support materials enable users to print complex geometry with superior surface finish on undersides. PolyDissolve™ S1 is a water soluble support material that will generally bond to PETG depending on the geometry.

When using soluble supports we recommend having no gap (z distance) between the model and supports.

Support Troubleshooting - If supports are fusing to the model, try decreasing the printing temperature by -5°C adjustments or increase the distance between the model and supports.

If your supports are failing / collapsing during the print, try increasing support density and printing with a raft, this will improve adhesion for the supports.

Post 3D Printing

Removing a print after completion

Once your 3D Print has completed, it can be removed from the build plate. The best method to remove your PETG 3D Prints will depend on your build platform with some of these methods specific to removing PETG prints. 

Rigid Build Platform
On rigid build platforms like glass or aluminium, a sharp paint scraper can be used to easily remove the model.

When printing on glass, the PETG print should be removed from the glass platform when the temperature is high. Removing a print after the bed has cooled may cause the glass to break because the print may shrink more rapidly than the glass plate.

As a solution we recommend applying a thin layer of Magigoo Original before printing, with Magigoo the model can self release as the bed cools.

Some printers are designed so the platform can be removed from the bed while other printers the build platform may be fixed in the printer. If the platform is fixed, we recommend supporting the platform with your second hand to prevent uneven pressure on the bed which could affect your bed leveling.

Flexible Build Platform
Some printers on the market print on flexible build plates. With these platforms users can flex the plate to remove prints.

Click here if you are having issues removing prints from the build platform.

Removing Layer Lines

With any extrusion based 3D printing process, layer lines are inevitable. For applications requiring the best surface finish, these layer lines can be removed through post-processing. We recommend sanding to eliminate the layer lines from PETG 3D prints.

We recommend printing your parts with at least 3 perimeters/shells or a minimum wall thickness of 1.2mm if you plan on sanding. This wall thickness will ensure you don’t sand past the external shell and reach the infil. 

Wet or dry sanding with a foam block is the most common process to smooth 3D prints. The pressure can be evened through the foam block to create a smoother surface. For the best surface finish we recommend wet sanding. The water will assist to keep the sand paper clean and will dissipate heat from the sanding.

Start with coarse sandpaper and end with high grit sandpaper while always maintaining a circular motion. The ideal grit to choose will depend on what surface quality you require. 

Please wear a face mask when sanding to prevent breathing any dust or particles.

Chemical post processing is also possible with PETG however the chemicals required are heavily regulated and bring significant health risks.

The process of chemically smoothing PETG is not recommended by 3D Printing Solutions and should only be investigated by industrial users who are prepared to follow all strict safety precautions at their own risk. 


Specific painting recommendations may vary depending on the PETG filament.

Finding suitable paint for PETG plastics can be harder than materials like PLA and ABS. We recommend first painting your parts with a plastic primer and removing layer lines and model clean up are recommended before painting.

Unsuitable combinations of solvents in the paint system can attack the material and, depending on the stress condition of the parts, may initiate stress cracking. It is therefore recommended to contact the paint manufacturers who can supply suitable paint systems especially for the PET family of plastics.


Parts printed in PET plastics can be difficult to join depending on your mechanical requirements.

Trouble Shooting

Poor surface quality

PETG should ideally print with a clean and smooth surface finish. Please consider these notes if the surface quality of your models is rough or textured 

Improving surface quality.

  • We first suggest checking that your spool of PETG is dry. An easy way to test for moisture content in a spool of filament is to extrude the filament, if you hear a distinct popping sound your filament has likely absorbed moisture. As the filament is extruded, the moisture will expand and rupture in the filament creating a rough and inconsistent extrusion. Typically If you experience issues with moisture, printing with a dry box and applying preventative measures will be important to maintain the best printing results.
  • If your extruder temperature or flow rate is too low during printing, the PETG filament won't extrude properly, leaving gaps within the model. Printing with the correct nozzle temperature will solve this issue.
  • Too much friction on the filament feeding path can result in under extrusion. To reduce resistance on the filament you can move the spool holder closer to the 3D printer and check the curve of the filament guide tube is not too tight.
  • If your extruder temperature is too high during printing the filament can sag when printing steep unsupported overhangs. We recommend printing with the cooling fan set to a LOW setting to achieve the best underside surface quality. Printing with a lower nozzle temperature can also improve overhang surface quality.
  • If your nozzle is partially blocked the filament will have difficulty extruding. Click here for trouble shooting tips regarding blocked nozzles.
  • Slowing down your printing speeds can help to minimize vibration, ensure consistent extrusion and improve printing quality.
  • Printing with the wrong retraction settings can negatively impact the quality of a 3D print. If the retraction distance is too high and the retraction speed is too slow, the nozzle won't be primed with enough material when the next layer starts, resulting in gaps. Temporarily turning off retraction settings is one way to see if retraction is causing gaps in the model. If the poor quality is related to retraction, printing with a lower retraction distance, faster retraction speed or turning off coasting may solve under extrusion when printing with retraction. If the retraction speed is too high, the feeding gear may grind the filament, causing a filament jam.
  • If there are gaps in the top surface of your 3D print this is commonly referred to as pitting. Pitting can be related to temperature or moisture however generally occurs when the infil is to low to support the top layers of the 3D print. This can be solved by increasing the number of top layers on your model to match the layer height you are printing. 6 top layers with a 0.2mm layer height will result in a 1.2mm top surface thickness, the same number of top layers at 0.1mm layer height will only result in a 0.6mm top surface thickness. Printing with 12 top layers with a 0.1mm layer height will achieve the 1.2mm top surface thickness.

Click here if you are having issues with burn marks or blobs on your 3D print.

Click here if you are having issues with wisps and stringing.

Blocked Nozzle / Filament Jam

When 3D Printing it is possible to encounter filament jams or nozzle blockages, these blockages can be caused due to a variety of reasons.

Causes and Steps to Prevent Nozzle Blockage and filament jams.
In all of these cases if the filament cannot pass through the extruder, the extruder gear will continue to try push the filament and will eventually 'chew out' the filament. If you hear a clicking or clunking sound coming from the extruder, this is a good sign that the filament is jammed or will be if ignored. 

  • If your extruder temperature is too low during printing, the PETG filament will not flow and will have difficulty extruding. Printing with the correct nozzle temperature will solve this issue.
  • If the filament is softening in the hot end, the extruder will 'chew out' the filament, causing a nozzle jam. This issue is known as heat creep, click here to learn more about this issue.
  • If there is too much friction on the filament, the extruder may have difficulties feeding the plastic. Try feeding the filament with a spool holder in different positions (above, beside, behind the printer).
  • Too much retraction or grip / tension from the extruder gear can cause filament to chew out and jam. Adjusting retraction behavior or the extruder gear tension can solve this issue.
  • If the nozzle height is set too close to the bed, the filament will have difficulty feeding through the nozzle eventually causing a filament jam. When printing at finer layer heights (0.1 and 0.05mm) the correct nozzle height is even more important. To prevent this issue it is important to print with the bed leveled and the correct nozzle height.
  • If the part is warping or lifting off the bed, the part will be pushing against the nozzle limiting extrusion and material flow, in this case it is important to prevent the part from warping.
  • If the printing speed is faster than the filament can reliably melt and extrude a jam may occur. Decreasing the printing speed may help prevent this issue in the future.
  • Nozzle Blockages can occur more commonly with finer nozzles. The majority of 3D Printers are equipped with 0.4mm nozzles, it is important when printing or experimenting with a smaller nozzle (0.2mm) to adjust printing speed and extrusion settings 
  • If the filament is of poor quality, is oval shaped or is manufactured with an inconsistent diameter, this can cause the filament to jam in the extruder. The industry standard for filament tolerance is ± 0.05 mm. If the filament is 1.75mm an acceptable diameter variance would be between 1.70 - 1.80mm. Premium and higher quality brands can offer ± 0.02 mm tolerance. If you have difficulties printing PETG with only specific brands of filament this could signify issue with their quality control or could also be related to heat creep or printing with the wrong settings.

Cleaning a PETG Nozzle Blockage
If the nozzle is blocked with PETG one of the most successful solutions is to feed a tougher material like PC through the extruder / hot end. As polycarbonate is a considerably tough material, with assistance and a high nozzle temperature you can generally purge and remove the clogged plastic.

If you cannot remove the blockage of PETG plastic from the nozzle, we recommend swapping to a spare nozzle.

Sticking to nozzle

During printing the viscosity of PETG is similar to some glues. This characteristic can cause filament to build up on the nozzle during printing and impact print quality.

Solutions to preventing PETG sticking to nozzle.

  • Adjusting how your first layer prints can help to prevent filament from sticking to the nozzle. Some filaments are best printed when the first layer is 'squished' into the bed, but printing PETG this way will cause plastic to stick to the nozzle. Increasing the gap between the nozzle and bed can help solve this issue.
  • Printing with the right flow of material is critical to preventing this behavior, this can be controlled by adjusting the nozzle temperature or cooling fan.
  • Increasing retraction and the travel speed can help reduce oozing which can stick to the nozzle. Click here for tips on reducing oozing.
  • Some 3D printers will perform a movement known as a Z-hop. The bed will lower (or nozzle will raise) by a small amount to prevent the nozzle from dragging on the surface. This can be beneficial when printing delicate structures. Printing PETG with z-hop enabled can create wisps that the nozzle will pickup.

'Burning' / Discolouring

If your PETG prints have discoloured marks on the surface, this may be cased by the following:

 Preventing carbonization.

Heat Creep

What is heat creep?

Jamming can occur when heat creeps up the extruder to the extruder gear and softens the filament too early. This can cause many problems including the filament chewing out instead of gripping and feeding through the hot end.

Heat creep affects lower temperature materials like PETG due to their low softening temperature of 80°C and the issue is more prominent on enclosed high temperature 3D printers, some dual extruder printers where a section of filament sits idle for long times or cheap 3D printers with poorly designed extruders.

Solutions to preventing heat creep.

The first step is to make sure the extruder fan is cooling the extruder as intended. If the printer is enclosed, printing with all front doors and top hatches open may help to cool and prevent the filament from softening near the extruder gear. Printing on the lower end of the materials extrusion temperature can also help reduce heat creep in some cases.

Heat creep related jams may be more common when printing parts with retraction. The filament will feed past the extruder gear multiple times with each retraction, this makes it far easier for the extruder gear to ‘chew out’ the filament. Printing simple parts with little or no retraction are more likely to be successful as the filament will only be passing the gear once.

Stringing / Oozing

PETG based materials can flow more easily than other materials leaving behind wisps of plastic during travel movements. By controlling the travel and flow behavior in the slicing software we can minimize and prevent oozing and stringing.

Minimizing and preventing stringing.

  • Printing with a cooler nozzle temperature will in many cases help to reduce unwanted oozing as the plastic will flow and solidify at a different rate.
  • By increasing the retraction length or retraction speed in your slicer settings, the extruder will withdraw a short distance filament from the nozzle, helping to prevent oozing when the extruder travels between points.
  • Increasing travel speed can reduce the 'idle' time of the nozzle and minimize the opportunity for stringing to occur.
  • Advanced slicer settings like coasting can be turned on to effectively reduce stringing.
  • Printing PETG with z-hop enabled can sometimes create wisps that the nozzle will pickup, printing with this feature disabled may reduce stringing.
  • If the spool has absorbed moisture, the moisture will affect the flow rate and viscosity of the material causing unwanted stringing and wisps.


PETG materials can typically be printed easily on most machines with excellent dimensional stability. In some cases it is possible for PETG materials to warp or lift, lets look at what can cause PETG prints to warp or lift off the bed.

Preventing warping.

  • The most common reason for PETG parts to warp or lift during the print is due to insufficient bed adhesion or an incorrect nozzle height. If the first layer of extruded plastic is not sticking to the bed, a small amount of residual stress will be enough to lift the part off the bed. It is important to ensure your nozzle height and bed is leveled correctly and that you are using the correct printing surfaces for PETG.
  • Drafts, cool air from air conditioners and low environmental temperatures in winter can cause the material to behave differently and will print with more internal stress. An enclosure with a closed front door can help to maintain the right printing environment.
  • Not every heated bed is made equal, some designs heat from the center, reaching lower temperatures around the edges of the build platform. Preheating can help to even out the temperature across the print bed.
  • Printing with the heated bed at 80°C will help to heat up the surrounding environment and improve bed adhesion and printing consistency. Depending on the thickness of the bed, some printers will accurately heat the bed to 80°C but in reality the surface of the bed may only be reaching 70°C, with some machines it may be required to set the bed to 90°C.

Cracking between layers

For the best results a consistent printing environment is required. 

  • Turning off the cooling can and increasing your nozzle temperature with a slower printing speed will maximize inter-layer bonding to reduce cracking.
  • Printing with an enclosure will help to maintain a consistent printing environment to reduce internal stress and cracking.
  • Printing with more perimeters can increase the surface area between layers, improving the bond and reducing the risk of cracking.

Poor Layer Adhesion

Causes and steps to improve poor layer adhesion.

  • If the filament is under-extruding during printing there will be inconsistencies and gaps between the layer, compromising  mechanical strength and layer adhesion. It is important to ensure you are printing the PETG filament at the right nozzle temperature to ensure consistent flow and to minimize drag or tension which may prevent the filament from feeding.
  • Printing with the cooling fan ON can negatively impact inter-layer adhesion of PETG. Printing with a LOW setting like 20% or OFF setting can significantly improve inter-layer adhesion.
  • If your model is printed with a lot of internal stress, the inter-layer performance of your model will be compromised. We recommend following our tips in relation to cracking.
  • Poor layer adhesion can also be caused when printing with PETG that has been spoiled with moisture. When the filament passes through the hot end, the moisture erupts creating bubbles in the extruded plastic, compromising  the parts mechanical properties. If a spool of filament has absorbed moisture, it can be dried however it is important to store the PETG correctly to prevent this issue from occurring.

Parts difficult to remove from platform

To print a successful print excellent adhesion between your first layer and the the bed is critical, but in some cases it can be difficult to remove models if your adhesion is too good.

Causes and steps to improve print removal experience

  • Some users prefer to apply Magigoo Original to their print bed. With Magigoo parts will self release when the bed cools down, making print removal easy.
  • Some print surfaces specifically manufactured for PETG materials are designed to maintain adhesion with the part when the bed is heated and self-release when the part is cool. Try removing the models when the heated bed is hot or cold to see what method best suits your printing surface.

If you are printing on glass (without Magigoo), please always remove the part when the glass bed is HOT.

  • Your heated bed may be operating too hot or your nozzle temperature may be too close to the bed. You can try making slight adjustments to the heated bed temperature or nozzle height if this improves your user experience. Of course this is a fine balance as adhesion between the print and platform is important to achieve successful prints.

Difficult to remove supports / raft

Preventing model from fusing to supports

  • Increasing the distance (z gap / vertical offset) between the model and supports can make support removal easier.
  • If the nozzle temperature is too high, it is possible for supports to permanently fuse to the model, requiring pliers or a chisel to remove. Reducing the nozzle temperature can help prevent this from happening.
  • Printing supports with a dense interface can improve the underside surface quality of your models. If the dense interface has too many layers it can be harder to remove this part of the support. Reducing the number of dense support layers and interface infil percentage can assist with support removal.
  • Reducing the infil percentage or changing the support pattern can help improve support removal.

Preventing model from fusing to raft

  • Increasing the distance (z gap / vertical offset) between the model and raft can make raft removal easier.
  • If the nozzle temperature is too high, it is possible for raft to permanently fuse to the model, requiring pliers or a chisel to remove. Reducing the nozzle temperature can help prevent this from happening.
  • If the bed temperature is too high, it is possible for the raft to permanently fuse to the model. Reducing the bed temperature can help prevent this from happening.
  • Adjusting the first layer height and the printing speed can impact how models will adhere to the raft. For example thicker first layer heights and slower speeds can sometimes improve raft removal.

Filament Links

PolyLite™ PETG Introduction
Buy PolyLite™ PETG

PolyMax™ PETG Introduction
Buy PolyMax™ PETG

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